Body & Engine ID Chart
|BODY TYPE||MODEL||ENGINE TYPE||ENGINE|
'63-66 Valiant, '64-69 Barracuda,
'63-76 Dart, All Duster, Demon, Sport, Scamp, Swinger
170, 198, 225, 4.0L
GTX, RT, Belvedere, SuperBird, Daytona, Coronet, Satellite, Road Runner, Charger, Super Bee, Cordoba, '62-64 Polara, '62-64 Sport Fury/Fury, '62-64 330/440, '62-64 Savoy, '76-78 Fury, '77-78 Monaco, '78-79 Magnum
|361, 383, 400
413, 426 Wedge, 440
|C-BODY||Full-size Chrysler Models: New Yorker, Newport, Imperial, 300, Town & Country. Full-size Dodge and Plymouth models: Monaco (to '76), '65-76 Fury/Sport Fury, '65-75 Polara|
|E-BODY||'70-74 Barracuda and Challenger|
|F-BODY||'76-80 Volare and Aspen, Road Runner and R/T|
|J-BODY||'80-83 Mirada and Cordoba|
|M-BODY||'77-88 Diplomat, LeBaron, Gran Fury, Fifth Avenue|
Successful Conversion Tips
Dear Mopar Enthusiast:
As the title of our website implies, we have made it easier, in fact, quite simple, to put a different engine in your Mopar. Our unique engine conversion kits have changed the rules of Mopar engine swaps—by eliminating, in most cases, the need for K-member changes and providing bolt-on convenience for engine conversion projects where that has never before been possible.
But, as the experienced car builder knows, there is much more to a successful engine conversion than just dropping an engine in the hole. Adding an engine that is not original to your car — and adding more horsepower — generally requires modification to other systems. Drivetrains, exhaust systems, oil pans, radiators and accessories are particular to your car, and are not all the same. For example, all exhaust manifolds are not the same. Some may not fit your engine without major rework. The same goes for oil pans, linkages, etc. They may be interchangeable within the engine category you've chosen, but may not allow the engine to be installed in the car body you've chosen. Because each decision you make on one part of your project affects other parts, it is always best to have a plan for your project, do your homework on how to achieve that plan, and stick to it.
Before spending money on our products, or any others related to your conversion, we always advise you take these simple steps: plan ahead, measure, and read all you can before you measure!
We strongly suggest you purchase a Factory Service Manual for your car's year and model before beginning your project. We also highly recommend The Mopar Performance Engine & Chassis manuals as invaluable guides to ensure your project goes smoothly.
Keep in mind that engine swaps are greatly simplified by using as many stock, bolt-on pieces as possible. Make every effort to ensure that the conversion parts you are using match the year/body model/engine you are building. Example: C-body exhaust manifolds may not work with A, B, or E-body applications. The same applies to linkages, radiators, etc.
Most important, since the goal of most engine swaps is to acquire more horsepower than your vehicle was originally built for, safety is a vital consideration.
Brakes, steering and suspension have to be in top condition.
The ability to stop is of greater importance than going forward. If your car came with 9" brakes there is no realistic way you can get this system to adequately stop a vehicle with a 300+ horsepower engine that weighs 100-200+ pounds more than the engine you took out. You must upgrade.
Also remember that the change to a larger engine adds weight directly over the front wheels. The lighter torsion bars your car originally came with make for great weight transfer at the drag strip, but a handling nightmare on the street. Unless your car is to be trailered to the track, we strongly recommend upgrading your torsion bars.
We've included other tech tips and supporting product suggestions, specific to the type of conversion, on the individual Product Information Sheets in our catalog. And please remember, we're always happy to answer any other questions you may have about any of our products.